Mark Kenly Domino Tan is now officially MKDT Studio—a name change that has been coming since the brand’s founder parted ways with his eponymous label in 2022. The rebrand doesn’t represent a pivot for the label, though: instead it serves to cement the vision of creative director Caroline Engelgaar, who took the reins following Tan’s departure.
Still, any type of change can cause a certain degree of friction—a concept that formed the starting point for fall 2025. “I always pick a theme that is relevant to the world we’re living in,” Engelgaar said at a preview. “There are so many directions which are really extreme.”
That sense of discord was reflected by this season’s choice of show venue: the glass-roofed extension at the Statens Museum for Kunst, symbolic of the inflection point we’re at right now “between the old world and the new.” So too was the ominous electronic music that began the show (Swiss sound artist Zimoun was another source of inspiration), contrasting with the classical melodies played live by a young pianist.
When it came to the collection, the idea of friction was represented by the choice of materials: leather waistbands peeped out above mélange wool skirts, and technical fabric used for the brand’s signature tailoring rustled as models walked by. Engelgaar became interested in the friction involved in Japanese origami, a technique used in two of the strongest pieces of the collection—a sculptural pleated blazer and dress that draped beautifully over the body. The high level of craftsmanship on display was evident in the delicate pearl embroidery seen in looks 26 and 28, too, inspired by the pepper and water science trick you might have done at school.
Despite this season’s theme, the overall effect was decidedly frictionless—a testament to the coherence of Engelgaar’s vision, and the quality of the execution. As the designer said, it was about “trying to make a harmony” out of the discord. She succeeded in her mission.
